Showing posts with label Boating. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Boating. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Free Boaters Safety Course Offered

Free Boaters Safety Course Sept. 19; Final class for 2009

Are you new to the great recreational activity of boating? Or would you like for you and members of your family to be safer boaters?

Well, we’ve got a class for you…. and it’s free.

The IGFA and the Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission are teaming together to host the next free Boaters Safety Courses beginning on Saturday, Sept. 19, at the IGFA Fishing Hall of Fame & Museum, Dania Beach, Fla.

The all day class begins at 8 a.m. and lasts till 4 p.m. It’s the final class offered for 2009.

This course, taught by the law enforcement division of the FFWCC meets the mandatory boating safety education requirements for the State of Florida.
The class is comprised of a six chapter review and a final exam and is limited to 16 people with advance registration. For more information and to register, please call Joanie Tomlin at the IGFA at 954-924-4312 or email her at JTomlin@igfa.org.

Thursday, August 28, 2008

TOP TEN INSURANCE CLAIMS FOR PONTOONS

BoatUS Looks at the Claims Files

ALEXANDRIA, VA, August 25, 2008 - Seaworthy, the newsletter from BoatU.S. that helps boaters and anglers prevent damage to their vessels and injuries, has looked into the causes of insurance claims for pontoon boats.

Unlike the average fiberglass runabout, a pontoon boat's aluminum construction and log hull forms set it apart in both on-the-water handling and maintenance. "These spacious boats make great platforms for tubing, fishing, or just gunkholing. However, owners need to be aware of certain safety and maintenance issues unique to these vessels," said Seaworthy Editor Bob Adriance.

After reviewing the BoatU.S. claims files, here are ten recurring items that most often lead to trouble:

1. Anode awareness: Galvanic corrosion, which occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact with an electrolyte such as salt water, can quickly destroy aluminum. And unfortunately, most insurance policies don't cover this damage. In salty, brackish and even freshwater, aluminum sacrificial anodes are best as they outlast other alloys. Outboard engine zincs also need replacement if they have deteriorated to less than half their original size.

2. Get Wired: In order to protect the boat and engine, the pontoon needs to be electrically connected to the pontoon's engine via a ground wire. If not, galvanic corrosion can set in.

3. Avoid the "pits": Pontoon logs that sit on muddy lake bottoms during low water can become pitted with corrosion. This occurs because the mud prevents dissolved oxygen in the water from making contact with the aluminum, which relies on an oxidized layer or "skin" for corrosion protection. Consider pulling or moving the boat if water levels drop.

4. Don't "plow" ahead: When seas build, pontoons have a tendency to plow into waves, which can lead to a significant amount of water over the deck. Pontoons are also challenging to handle in following seas. If you can't avoid rough weather, slow way down and trim weight aft.

5. Passenger injuries: One big difference with pontoon boats is that they don't bank in turns, which can lead to injuries when passengers are thrown to the deck or even overboard in a hard turn. Large wakes from passing vessels can nearly stop a pontoon if taken improperly. Passengers should always remain seated while underway.

6. Watch out for windage: Another reason to slow way down in heavy weather is the increased windage from a pontoon's large bimini top. Never trailer a pontoon without removing the bimini.

7. Don't Under-size-me: The normally benign wind conditions on many small lakes and rivers can also lull pontoon owners into using undersized dock lines and too few fenders. Since many pontoon boats don't have rub rails, damage can occur quickly during summer thunderstorms.

8. Swimmers take care: Because they make great swim platforms, pontoons are involved in a fair share of swimming injuries, often diving related. If you're going swimming, it's safest to enter the water via a ladder - not head first.

9. Grand theft pontoon: No, it's not a new video game. Because it's difficult to hide or secure expensive gear on a pontoon, things like chartplotters and iPods should be removed at the end of the day.

10. Four-legged vandals: Raccoons, muskrats and their furry brethren enjoy upholstery and wiring like a vegetarian at a salad bar. There's no simple solution to keeping critters off the boat, but reducing fish or food smells by washing it down, or using commercially available repellants such as fox urine, have been known to help.

BoatU.S. - Boat Owners Association of The United States - is the nation's leading advocate for recreational boaters providing its 650,000 members with a wide array of consumer services including a marine insurance. For more information or for a free quote, call 800-283-2883.

TOP TEN REASONS FOR PONTOON BOAT INSURANCE CLAIMS

BoatU.S. Looks at the Claims Files

Boat Owners Association of The United States
880 S. Pickett St., Alexandria, VA 22304


ALEXANDRIA, VA, August 25, 2008 - Seaworthy, the newsletter from BoatU.S. that helps boaters and anglers prevent damage to their vessels and injuries, has looked into the causes of insurance claims for pontoon boats.

Unlike the average fiberglass runabout, a pontoon boat's aluminum construction and log hull forms set it apart in both on-the-water handling and maintenance. "These spacious boats make great platforms for tubing, fishing, or just gunkholing. However, owners need to be aware of certain safety and maintenance issues unique to these vessels," said Seaworthy Editor Bob Adriance.

After reviewing the BoatU.S. claims files, here are ten recurring items that most often lead to trouble:

1. Anode awareness: Galvanic corrosion, which occurs when dissimilar metals are in contact with an electrolyte such as salt water, can quickly destroy aluminum. And unfortunately, most insurance policies don't cover this damage. In salty, brackish and even freshwater, aluminum sacrificial anodes are best as they outlast other alloys. Outboard engine zincs also need replacement if they have deteriorated to less than half their original size.

2. Get Wired: In order to protect the boat and engine, the pontoon needs to be electrically connected to the pontoon's engine via a ground wire. If not, galvanic corrosion can set in.

3. Avoid the "pits": Pontoon logs that sit on muddy lake bottoms during low water can become pitted with corrosion. This occurs because the mud prevents dissolved oxygen in the water from making contact with the aluminum, which relies on an oxidized layer or "skin" for corrosion protection. Consider pulling or moving the boat if water levels drop.

4. Don't "plow" ahead: When seas build, pontoons have a tendency to plow into waves, which can lead to a significant amount of water over the deck. Pontoons are also challenging to handle in following seas. If you can't avoid rough weather, slow way down and trim weight aft.

5. Passenger injuries: One big difference with pontoon boats is that they don't bank in turns, which can lead to injuries when passengers are thrown to the deck or even overboard in a hard turn. Large wakes from passing vessels can nearly stop a pontoon if taken improperly. Passengers should always remain seated while underway.

6. Watch out for windage: Another reason to slow way down in heavy weather is the increased windage from a pontoon's large bimini top. Never trailer a pontoon without removing the bimini.

7. Don't Under-size-me: The normally benign wind conditions on many small lakes and rivers can also lull pontoon owners into using undersized dock lines and too few fenders. Since many pontoon boats don't have rub rails, damage can occur quickly during summer thunderstorms.

8. Swimmers take care: Because they make great swim platforms, pontoons are involved in a fair share of swimming injuries, often diving related. If you're going swimming, it's safest to enter the water via a ladder - not head first.

9. Grand theft pontoon: No, it's not a new video game. Because it's difficult to hide or secure expensive gear on a pontoon, things like chartplotters and iPods should be removed at the end of the day.

10. Four-legged vandals: Raccoons, muskrats and their furry brethren enjoy upholstery and wiring like a vegetarian at a salad bar. There's no simple solution to keeping critters off the boat, but reducing fish or food smells by washing it down, or using commercially available repellants such as fox urine, have been known to help.

BoatU.S. - Boat Owners Association of The United States - is the nation's leading advocate for recreational boaters providing its 650,000 members with a wide array of consumer services including a marine insurance. For more information or for a free quote, call 800-283-2883.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Midsummer Boat Maintenance Tips

MIDSUMMER BOAT MAINTENANCE TIPS FROM BOATU.S.

ALEXANDRIA, VA, August 6, 2008 - Seaworthy, the newsletter from BoatU.S. that helps boaters and anglers prevent damage to their vessels, recently looked into some of the more common reasons for on-the-water boat troubles that occur mid-season.

"Preventive maintenance will help you avoid the headaches and keep your crew or fishing buddies comfortable and safe," says Seaworthy Editor Bob Adriance. "So going over the boat's systems in the spring is very important. But now after a couple months of use, it's time to look at things again.

A midsummer check-up will ensure you make it back to home port without a problem."Here are some midsummer maintenance tips for both power and sailboats:·

Through-hulls: Make a thorough check around any below-the-waterline hole or opening. Check all through-hulls for leaks and cycle seacocks to ensure they close properly. If it's hard to move the handle, make a note to service it next time the boat is out of the water.

Any hose clamps should be tight and hose ends secure. A bilge pump cycle counter is a simple upgrade and the best early warning system that unwanted water is coming aboard.

· Engine belts: For inboard engines, look in areas near the belts checking for evidence of black dust - a sure sign that engine pulleys need to be realigned and the belt replaced. Push on the longest run of the belt - it should not deflect more than one half inch.

· Engine hoses: Squeeze coolant and fuel hoses with your hands, looking for softness, cracks or bulges. Replace any that are suspect. Wiggle the ends to ensure they are secure and inspect for any possible chafing issues in the engine compartment.

· Sterndrives: Inspect the folds in the bellows and replace if they show signs of cracking.
· Sacrificial zincs and anodes: A wasted zinc is a sure sign of trouble, possibly stray current at the dock. Ensure all zincs are no less than half gone - and replace them now if they are.

· Control cables: Look for chafe, splits or swelling of the plastic jacket - a sure sign the cable needs replacement.

· Outboard engine mounts: Smaller engines can sometimes vibrate loose, so re-tighten clamps and ensure the cut-off switch is operable.

· Hydraulic steering system and trim tabs: Ensure reservoirs are full. If you have to add fluid, there is leak that must be fixed immediately.

· Batteries and electrical system: Dead batteries are often nothing more than corroded connections - sandpaper can easily clean them up. With conventional batteries check water levels and add if necessary. Inspect cables and wiring for chafe, especially wherever they may pass through a bulkhead.

· Shorepower cable: Look for burn marks on the plug ends and the connection to the boat. Replace both the plug and receptacle immediately if you find any.

· Head: If your boat has a flushing toilet and its handle is getting hard to operate, you've likely got calcium buildup. Pour a cup of vinegar into bowl pumping only once or twice. Let it sit for one night before flushing with one-fourth cup of mineral oil.

· On deck: Old, stiff, or chafed dock lines should be replaced. Also check anchor line and chain shackles and any splices.

· Sailboats only: Look for any broken strands on standing rigging. You can find them by running a loose rag up the rigging, which will snag on any broken ends. Cracked swages are an indicator for immediate replacement. Contact a rigger if you suspect a problem. Running rigging also needs to be looked at - especially the roller furling line.

· Trailers: Inspect bearings and ensure they are well packed with grease. Hydraulic brake reservoirs should be full. Lastly, check the tires for wear and ensure lugs are tight.

BoatU.S. - Boat Owners Association of The United States - is the nation's leading advocate for recreational boaters providing its 650,000 members with a wide array of consumer services. For membership information call 800-395-2628.